Growing Hydroponic Vegetables at Home

What is Hydroponic GardeningGrowing Hydroponic Vegetables at Home

Welcome to Hydroponic Gardening Blog, the place where you’ll be able to find information about anything related to hydroponics, as well as hydroponic systems and how to grow hydroponic vegetables at home. We don’t sell any products or information, that way we can remain objective. We don’t just post the manufactures propaganda designed to sell products like other websites. We only use information from trusted and creditable sources, as well as feedback from actual growers. Not just home growers, but also what we learn form commercial hydroponic farms also.
strawberries growing in a home build hydroponic system
Through the years we have spent a lot of time searching for good creditable information to grow our own plants, and Home Hydro Systems was created to share what we have learned and found out with everyone else too. Simply because we want to help everyone grow their plants successfully also. At the same time we can help promote the benefits of using hydroponics for food production. We only have one goal in mind, and that’s simply to help show people that you can grow your own produce hydroponically, and without it costing a fortune.
flowers on strawberry plants in a hydroponic system
Growing plants successfully isn’t all, it’s got to be affordable too, or what’s the point. We aren’t’ interested in growing a $12 tomato, we strive to show you that you can grow better produce at home hydroponically, and for less money than you can buy it for at the store, or even grow it in the ground. After all, it wouldn’t be worthwhile if it wasn’t economical to grow them hydroponically now would it?

Home made hydroponic system growing lettuce

You don’t need an expensive hydroponic system, expensive nutrients, or even expensive grow lights to grow your crops hydroponically. You can build your own very good hydroponic systems inexpensively. Also there are plenty of very good commercially made cost effective nutrients you can use. You don’t even need any grow lights if you can make use of free natural sunlight. It’s easy to build your own hydroponic systems. Regardless of what you want to grow, hydroponic systems really only have, and/or need a few basic parts to work very well.


Hydroponic system only need a few basic parts to build

Growing Chamber (or tray),
The growing chamber is the part of the hydroponic system where the plants roots will be growing. Simply put, the growing chamber is the container for the root zone. This area provides plant support, as well as is where the roots access the nutrient solution. It also protects the roots from light, heat, and pests. It’s important to keep the root zone cool and light proof. Prolonged light will damage the roots, and high temps in the root zone will cause heat stress for your plants, as well as cause fruit and flower drop as a result of heat stress. The nutrient solution temperature itself is very important part of keeping the roots and entire root zone comfortable for the plants.

The size and shape of the growing chamber really just depends on the type of hydroponic system your building, as well as the type of plants you’ll be growing in it. Bigger plants have bigger root systems, and need more space to hold them in. The designs here are endless. Almost anything can be used as the growing chamber, you just don’t want to use anything made of metal or it could corrode or react with the nutrients. If you look around you’ll get lots of ideas of what and how you can easily use many different things for building the growing chamber of your hydroponic system.

Reservoir,
The reservoir is the part of the hydroponic system that holds the nutrient solution. The nutrient solution consists of plant nutrients that are mixed in water. Depending on the type of hydroponic system, the nutrient solution can be pumped from the reservoir up to the growing chamber (root zone) in cycles using a timer, as well as continually without a timer, or the roots can even hang down into the reservoir 24/7, making the reservoir the growing chamber also.

You can make a reservoir out of just about anything plastic that holds water. As long as it doesn’t leak, holds enough water, and is cleaned out well first it can be used as reservoir. Read this article for more about how big your nutrient reservoir should be. A reservoir also needs to be light proof. If you can hold it over your head and see light coming through it, it’s not light proof. But it’s easy to make any container light proof by painting it, covering it, or wrapping something like bubble wrap insulation around it. Algae and microorganisms can begin growing with even low light levels.

Submersible Pump,
Most hydroponic systems use a submersible pump to pump the water (nutrient solution) from the reservoir up to the growing chamber/root zone for the plants. Submersible pumps can easily be found at hydroponic supply shop, or most home improvement stores with garden supplies as fountain and/or pond pumps. They will also come in a wide variety of sizes. Read this page for how to decide what size pump you need for your hydroponic system?

The submersible pumps are basically nothing more than an impeller that uses a electromagnet to spin it. They can also easily be taken all apart to be cleaned thoroughly. If it doesn’t come with a filter, you can easily make one by cutting a piece of furnace filter screen or similar material to fit. You should clean both the pump and filter regularly to keep them clean.

Delivery system,
A hydroponic systems water/nutrient solution delivery system is really quite simple, as well as extremely customizable when building your own hydro systems. Besides the pump, it’s really nothing more than just the pluming the water/nutrient solution goes through to get to the plants roots in the growing chamber, and back to the reservoir again. Typically the simplest and best materials to use for the nutrient delivery system are a combination of standard PVC tubing and connectors, standard garden irrigation tubing and connectors, as well as blue or black vinyl tubing.

Depending on the type of hydroponic system you build, you may want to use drip emitters or sprayers as part of your nutrient solution delivery system. While they can be useful, they also can clog. So if you do, make sure you have extras you can quickly swap out while you clean the clogged ones. We try to avoid using emitters because they do clog, as well as cost extra money.

Simple Timer,
Depending on the type of hydroponic system you build, and where you place the system to grow your plants. You may need one or two simple timers. If you use artificial lighting to grow the plants instead of natural sunlight, you’ll want a timer to control the on/off times for the lighting system. For flood and drain, drip, and aeroponic systems you’ll need a timer to control the on/off times for the submersible water pump. Some types of aeroponic systems may need a special timer. Visit the aeroponic systems page to find out more about the types of aeroponic systems, and timers for them.

Standard everyday light timers work fine for both the lights as well as the submersible pumps. However we do recommend making sure the timer is rated for 15 amps rather than 10 amps. Fifteen amp timers are often called heavy duty, if not just check the back of the package or timer for the 15 amp rating. Also try and get one for outdoor use, they usually have a cover and are usually water resistant.

We don’t recommend the more expensive digital timers over the analogue dial type. Simply because digital timers will loose all memory, as well as your settings if they loose power or get unplugged, even for one second for any reason (unless you find one with a battery backup). They often don’t have any more actual on/off settings than the analogue type as well. Just make sure the timer you get has pins all the way around the dial.

Air Pump,
Other than in water culture systems, air pumps are optional in hydroponic systems. But using them has benefits, and air pumps are relatively inexpensive. Air pumps can be found anywhere they sell aquarium supplies. Air pumps simply just supply air and oxygen to the water and roots. Air is pumped through an air line to air stones that create a bunch of small bubbles that rise up through the nutrient solution.

In water culture systems the air pump helps keep the plants roots from suffocating while their submerged in the nutrient solution 24/7. For any other type of hydroponic system, the air pump is typically used in the reservoir. It helps to increase dissolved oxygen levels in the water up and keep the water oxygenated. Visit this page for more about dissolved oxygen levels.

Other advantage’s of using air pumps are that as the air bubbles rise, they keep the water and nutrients moving and circulating, this keeps the nutrients evenly mixed all the time. The circulating oxygenated water also helps reduce pathogens from gaining a foothold in the reservoir.

Grow Lights,
Grow lights are an optional part of hydroponic systems. Depending on where you plan to put your hydroponic system, and grow your plants. You could choose to either use natural sunlight, or artificial light to grow your plants with. If you can make use of it we prefer natural sunlight, it’s is free and doesn’t require any extra equipment. However if there just isn’t enough natural sunlight where you put your hydroponic system, or at that time of year, you’ll need to use at least some artificial light to grow your plants.

Grow lights are different than most standard household lights. Grow lights are designed to emit certain color spectrums that mimic natural sunlight. The plants use these color spectrums (wavelengths) of light to conduct photosynthesis. The plants need to conduct photosynthesis in order to grow and produce fruit and flowers. So the type, as well as the amount of light a plant gets will greatly affect the plants ability to photosynthesize, and thus grow. Visit our page on lighting and grow lights for hydroponic plants for more about the different types of artificial lights used to grow plants.

Solution Versus Aggregate Cultures

When setting up a hydroponic garden, you’ll need to decide whether you want to use only a solution culture or use some sort of aggregate as a growth medium. Your decision will be influenced in part by the size and sturdiness of the plants you grow, the structure of your system and the root development of your plants.

Plants with shallow roots, like leafy greens, do fine in solution cultures. On the other hand, plants with deep roots, such as beets, do better with aggregate systems, as do top-heavy vegetables, such as squash and cucumbers.

Aggregate cultures can use a variety of growth mediums, including:

  • small clay rocks (sometimes called hydrocorn)
  • rockwool
  • sand
  • perlite
  • vermiculite
  • peat moss
  • coconut fiber or chips
  • sterilized pea gravel

These are fairly inert ingredients, meaning they won’t decompose or break down quickly. Therefore, they provide a more stable environment to hold nutrients for the plant roots. Roots that are submerged in growth medium shouldn’t be allowed to get too soggy, or they will suffocate. (Solution-only systems use air pumps to generate bubbles to provide oxygen to the plant roots.)

You can use a single type of aggregate, or you can mix growth mediums. Many savvy garden centers these days offer a good selection and can help you compose the perfect material for your hydroponic garden.

Nutrient Solutions

Whole volumes could be written about nutrient systems for hydroponic gardens. There are hundreds of commercially available pre-made solutions today. Some store-bought solutions are ready-to-use, while others need to be mixed, combining primary, secondary and micro nutrients. You can buy special solutions for different types of crops too, based on the chemical elements those plants need most.

You can also mix your own solutions to get just the right nutrient mix. For example, to grow strawberries, it is recommended to use 50 milligrams of nitrogen and 150 milligrams of potassium per liter of solution. Cucumbers, however, to better with 200 milligrams of nitrogen and 280 of potassium.

Nitrogen is essential to create chlorophyll, as well as to build amino acids that make up proteins. Sulfur is another important amino acid element. Both potassium and magnesium help plants build starches and sugars, and calcium contributes to cell wall structure. Phosphorus is vital for photosynthesis. Micronutrients needed in trace amounts include:

  • iron
  • copper
  • manganese
  • zinc
  • molybdenum
  • boron

Your plants will often tell you if they are receiving too few or too many nutrients. Not enough nutrition and the leaves will turn yellow; too much and they will look brown, burnt or curled.

Make Your Own Nutrient Solution

Here is a recipe for a basic nutrient solution that you can make yourself. The proportions are for mixing in quantities of five gallons (20 liters):

  • 5 teaspoons (25 ml) CaNO3 (calcium nitrate)
  • 1/3 teaspoon (1.7 ml) K2SO4 (potassium sulfate)
  • 1-2/3 teaspoons (8.3 ml) KNO3 (potassium nitrate)
  • 1-1/4 teaspoons (6.25 ml) KH2PO4 (monopotassium phosphate)
  • 3-1/2 teaspoons (17.5 ml) MgSO4 (magnesium sulfate)
  • 2/5 teaspoon (2 ml) trace elements

Store your solution in food-grade containers, such as old milk jugs. Make sure to shake it well before using. Keep your solution away from light at room temperature.

Water for your Solution

You need to be much pickier about the water you use with a hydroponic garden than you do with a traditional soil garden. This is because the plants are absorbing much more of whatever is in the water, and there is no soil to act as a filter for undesirable elements.

Be sure to use raw water that does not contain any sodium, chloride or fluoride. This means using water straight from the tap is out in most cases. Use a pure water supply, or treat your water with an ion-exchange system or desalinization. You cannot use softened water for hydroponic gardens, as it has far too many additives in it. If you have hard water that is free of fluoride and chloride, you can purchase nutrient solution that is designed to balance its hardness.

Solution pH Levels

Keep in mind that you should probably test periodically to make sure your nutrient solution is at the optimum pH for your plants. Most plants prefer a slightly acidic growing solution, somewhere in the range of 5.8 – 6.3 (7 being neutral). Solutions at a pH below 5.8 will cause your plants to lose calcium and magnesium.

You can easily test your solution pH with a home testing kit from your garden center or online retailer. If your solution is too alkaline, you can use dilute sulfuric, phosphoric or nitric acid to increase the acidity.

Light

Light is an essential component of growing plants. Like with any garden, you can use natural sunlight to light your hydroponic garden. You can also use artificial lights, such as:

  • high-pressure sodium bulbs
  • LEDs
  • metal halide
  • high-output fluorescents
  • compact fluorescents

You may want to use natural light when it’s available and artificial light at other times, so consider how portable you make your system if you intend to do this. Also, keep your light system fairly flexible, so you can adjust it as your plants grow, much like when starting seeds indoors.

Starting Out: A Few DIY Options

Plastic Storage Tubs as Your Structural Base

You can create easy DIY hydroponic systems at home using readily found items or even containers you may already have around the house. You can convert a plastic storage tub with lid into a mini hydroponic garden in an afternoon. Some people also use this method to start plants, transplanting them into a conventional garden once they’re big enough and the weather is conducive.

You can also stack multiple storage tub hydroponic units on a rack to maximize your growing space. If you put wheels on the base, it will be easy to move in and out of the house or to follow the sun on a deck or patio.

The bottom container holds a reservoir of nutrient solution that gets pumped through the entire unit, and the base is a good location for larger, heavier plants as well. Use the uppermost rack for lightweight herbs and small flowering plants (there’s no rule that says you can only grow food with your hydroponic system). This is a simple and elegant solution for apartment dwellers, seniors or even school classrooms.

Plastic Storage Tubs with Wicks

If the systems above feel too challenging to start out with, you can create an even easier home hydroponic garden with a wick system. Any two containers nested one on top of the other will work for this type of garden. Two plastic paint buckets or two plastic storage bins are ideal. In the bottom container place your reservoir of nutrient solution, and in the top container place a growth medium and your plants. Cut small holes in the bottom of the top container through which you can run wicks to transport your nutrient solution from the base to your plants.

For your wicks use braided polyurethane yarn or a fibrous rope. Stay away from cotton or nylon, as the former will rot too quickly and the latter won’t wick the liquid well enough. Run a piece of PVC pipe vertically through your system to act as a nutrient fill tube when you need to replenish your solution.

No pumps or tubing are needed for this setup, making it perfect for locations without electricity or when you don’t have access to aquarium supplies. It’s also a wonderful project to let kids manage, as once it’s established, it takes a minimum of maintenance to see results.

Aquarium Water Culture Systems

If you want a system that uses little to no growth medium and only liquid culture, an aquarium provides the perfect container. Many people have an old one sitting around the garage or basement, and this is a great way to put it to good use. Even purchasing one new is a small cash investment for the amount of produce you can grow in such a small environment. Aquarium systems are well suited to growing water-loving plants, like lettuce and other greens.

Cut a thick piece of styrofoam (one inch thick or more) to serve as a platform at the top of the unit. Make sure its dimensions are smaller than those of the aquarium, so it can float freely at the top of the garden. Set an aquarium air stone at the bottom of the unit, connected to an air line running to an air pump, just as you would for fish. This supplies oxygen to the plant roots.

Fill the aquarium about two-thirds of the way full with your nutrient solution. Next, cut holes in the styrofoam, and insert plastic cups with no bottoms to hold your plants. Gently place the styrofoam tray with your plants in the solution. The ends of the roots should dangle in the nutrient liquid. If your plants are too small or fragile, you can add a tiny amount of growth medium in each cup to hold them steady and vertical. Simply lift up the corner of the styrofoam platform whenever you want to check on your solution or add more.

The handier you are and the more time you have available, the more creative you can get with your hydroponic systems, especially once you have a little experience growing like this under your belt. You can start off small and expand your garden as you gain know-how, or if you don’t mind a bit of trial and error, take on a big system right out of the gate. You can even video or blog about your process and results to help other novice hydroponic gardeners get their gardens started. You may enjoy hydroponic gardening so much that you never go back to digging in the soil again!

What is Hydroponic Gardening

What is Hydroponic growing?   Hydroponics is a subset of hydroculture, which is the growing of plants in a soil less medium, or an aquatic based environment. Hydroponic growing uses mineral nutrient solutions to feed the plants in water, without soil. For those of us who love growing plants these are exciting times indeed. We are no longer … Continue reading “What is Hydroponic Gardening”

What is Hydroponic growing?

Hydroponics is a subset of hydroculture, which is the growing of plants in a soil less medium, or an aquatic based environment. Hydroponic growing uses mineral nutrient solutions to feed the plants in water, without soil.

For those of us who love growing plants these are exciting times indeed. We are no longer limited by climate or by season in the pursuit of our harmless pleasures. We can now grow virtually any plant at virtually any time of the year – the only limitation is our imagination. The simple, effective hydroponic systems now available, coupled with modern horticultural lighting, have transformed our hobby and freed us to grow our favourite plants where and when we choose.

Basic Hydroponic Systems

There are 6 basic types of hydroponic systems; Wick, Water Culture, Ebb and Flow (Flood & Drain), Drip (recovery or non-recovery), NFT (Nutrient Film Technique) and Aeroponic. There are hundreds of variations on these basic types of systems, but all hydroponic methods are a variation (or combination) of these six. Scroll down this page (or click on the system names) to see drawings and a description of each type of hydroponic system.

  1. WICK SYSTEM

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wick system

The Wick system is by far the simplest type of hydroponic system. This is a passive system, which means there are no moving parts. The nutrient solution is drawn into the growing medium from the reservoir with a wick. Free plans for a simple wick system are available (click here for plans).

This system can use a variety of growing medium. Perlite, Vermiculite, Pro-Mix and Coconut Fiber are among the most popular.

The biggest draw back of this system is that plants that are large or use large amounts of water may use up the nutrient solution faster than the wick(s) can supply it.

2. WATER CULTURE

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water culture

The water culture system is the simplest of all active hydroponic systems. The platform that holds the plants is usually made of Styrofoam and floats directly on the nutrient solution. An air pump supplies air to the air stone that bubbles the nutrient solution and supplies oxygen to the roots of the plants.

Water culture is the system of choice for growing leaf lettuce, which are fast growing water loving plants, making them an ideal choice for this type of hydroponic system. Very few plants other than lettuce will do well in this type of system.

This type of hydroponic system is great for the classroom and is popular with teachers. A very inexpensive system can be made out of an old aquarium or other water tight container. We have free plans and instructions for a simply water culture system.

The biggest draw back of this kind of system is that it doesn’t work well with large plants or with long-term plants.

3. EBB & FLOW – (FLOOD AND DRAIN)

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ebb and flow

The Ebb and Flow system works by temporarily flooding the grow tray with nutrient solution and then draining the solution back into the reservoir. This action is normally done with a submerged pump that is connected to a timer.

 

When the timer turns the pump on nutrient solution is pumped into the grow tray. When the timer shuts the pump off the nutrient solution flows back into the reservoir. The Timer is set to come on several times a day, depending on the size and type of plants, temperature and humidity and the type of growing medium used.

The Ebb & Flow is a versatile system that can be used with a variety of growing mediums. The entire grow tray can be filled with Grow Rocks, gravel or granular Rockwool. Many people like to use individual pots filled with growing medium, this makes it easier to move plants around or even move them in or out of the system. The main disadvantage of this type of system is that with some types of growing medium (Gravel, Growrocks, Perlite), there is a vulnerability to power outages as well as pump and timer failures. The roots can dry out quickly when the watering cycles are interrupted. This problem can be relieved somewhat by using growing media that retains more water (Rockwool, Vermiculite, coconut fiber or a good soiless mix like Pro-mix or Faffard’s).

4. DRIP SYSTEMS
RECOVERY / NON-RECOVERY

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drip system

Drip systems are probably the most widely used type of hydroponic system in the world. Operation is simple, a timer controls a submersed pump. The timer turns the pump on and nutrient solution is dripped onto the base of each plant by a small drip line. In a Recovery Drip System the excess nutrient solution that runs off is collected back in the reservoir for re-use. The Non-Recovery System does not collect the run off.

 

A recovery system uses nutrient solution a bit more efficiently, as excess solution is reused, this also allows for the use of a more inexpensive timer because a recovery system doesn’t require precise control of the watering cycles. The non-recovery system needs to have a more precise timer so that watering cycles can be adjusted to insure that the plants get enough nutrient solution and the runoff is kept to a minimum.

The non-recovery system requires less maintenance due to the fact that the excess nutrient solution isn’t recycled back into the reservoir, so the nutrient strength and pH of the reservoir will not vary. This means that you can fill the reservoir with pH adjusted nutrient solution and then forget it until you need to mix more. A recovery system can have large shifts in the pH and nutrient strength levels that require periodic checking and adjusting.

5. N.F.T.
(Nutrient Film Technique)

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NFT

This is the kind of hydroponic system most people think of when they think about hydroponics. N.F.T. systems have a constant flow of nutrient solution so no timer required for the submersible pump. The nutrient solution is pumped into the growing tray (usually a tube) and flows over the roots of the plants, and then drains back into the reservoir.

There is usually no growing medium used other than air, which saves the expense of replacing the growing medium after every crop. Normally the plant is supported in a small plastic basket with the roots dangling into the nutrient solution.

N.F.T. systems are very susceptible to power outages and pump failures. The roots dry out very rapidly when the flow of nutrient solution is interrupted.

6. AEROPONIC

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aeroponic

The aeroponic system is probably the most high-tech type of hydroponic gardening. Like the N.F.T. system above the growing medium is primarily air. The roots hang in the air and are misted with nutrient solution. The mistings are usually done every few minutes. Because the roots are exposed to the air like the N.F.T. system, the roots will dry out rapidly if the misting cycles are interrupted.

A timer controls the nutrient pump much like other types of hydroponic systems, except the aeroponic system needs a short cycle timer that runs the pump for a few seconds every couple of minutes.

2 Types of Hydroponic systems 

Hydroponic systems are characterized as active or passive. An active hydroponic system actively moves the nutrient solution, usually using a pump. Passive hydroponic systems rely on the capillary action of the growing medium or a wick. The nutrient solution is absorbed by the medium or the wick and passed along to the roots. Passive systems are usually too wet and do not supply enough oxygen to the root system for optimum growth rates.

Hydroponic systems can also be characterized as recovery or non-recovery. Recovery systems or recirculating systems reuse the nutrient solution. Non-recovery means just what it says. The nutrient solution is applied to the growing medium and not recovered.

4 Simply Hydroponic System

1. Wick System

The wick system is a passive non-recovery type hydroponic system. It uses no pumps and has no moving parts. The nutrients are stored in the reservoir and moved into the root system by capillary action often using a candle or lantern wick. In simpler terms, the nutrient solution travels up the wick and into the root system of the plant. Wick systems often uses sand or perlite, vermiculite mix and a growing medium. The wick system is easy and inexpensive to set-up and maintain. Although, it tends to keep the growing medium to wet, which doesn’t allow for the optimum amount of oxygen in the root system. The wick system is not the most effective way to garden hydroponically.

2. The Ebb and Flow System

The Ebb and Flow hydroponic system is an active recovery type system. The Ebb and Flow uses a submersible pump in the reservoir and the plants are in the upper tray. They work on a simple flood and drain theory. The reservoir holds the nutrient solution and the pump. When the pump turns on, the nutrient solution is pumped up to the upper tray and delivered to the root system of the plants. The pump should remain on for about 20 to 30 minutes, which is called a flood cycle. Once the water has reached a set level, an overflow pipe or fitting allows the nutrient solution to drain back into the reservoir. The pump remains on for the entire flood cycle. After the flood cycle the nutrient solution slowly drains back down into the reservoir through the pump.

During the flood cycle oxygen poor air is pushed out of the root system by the upward moving nutrient solution. As the nutrient solution drains back into the reservoir, oxygen rich air is pulled into the growing medium. This allows the roots ample oxygen to maximize their nutrient intake. Rockwool and grow rocks are most commonly used growing mediums in Ebb and Flow type systems. The Ebb and Flow is low maintenance, yet highly effective type of hydroponic gardening.

3. Nutrient Film Technique

The Nutrient Film Technique or NFT system is an active recovery type hydroponic system. Again, using submersible pumps and reusing nutrient solutions. The NFT uses a reservoir with a submersible pump that pumps the nutrient solution into a grow-tube where the roots suspended. The grow-tube is at a slight downward angle so the nutrient solution runs over the roots and back into the reservoir. The nutrient solution flows over the roots up to 24 hours per day.

Oxygen is needed in the grow-tube so capillary matting or air stones must be used. The plants are held up by a support collar or a grow-basket and no growing medium is used. The NFT system is very effective. Although, many novice hydroponic growers find it difficult to fine tune. It can also be very unforgiving, with no growing medium to hold any moisture, any long period of interruption in the nutrient flow can cause the roots to dry out and the plants to suffer and possibly die.

4. Continuous Drip

The Continuous Drip system is an active recovery or non-recovery type system. This system uses a submersible pump in a reservoir with supply lines going to each plant. With drip emitter for each plant the gardener can adjust the amount of solution per plant. A drip tray under each row of plants, sending the solution back to the reservoir, can easily make this system an active recovery type. In the early days of hydroponics, the extra solution was leached out into the ground. Continuous Drip systems are often used with Rockwool. Although, any growing medium can be used with this system, thanks to the adjustment feature on each individual drip emitter.